Mickey Turnbo: Photography and Stuff

I'm a little stalled right now trying to figure out how to get the rumble lid opening bigger. The lid is rubbing on the sides. Looks like there is going to be no easy fix. I also cut loose the rear quarters at the corners and removed the one wheel-well panel that I had welded in place. I removed the the old quarter panel repairs on the sides that I had put back on and am using new panels to help adjust the lower edges to match up with the lower edge of the doors. It's been three steps forward and two steps back the last couple of weeks. The doors have cleaned up really well and the body work on them is done. Just waiting on one hinge to come in to complete that work. The firewall has also been completed and is ready for paint. The top woodwork in all back in so after paint I can install the new top covering. I replaced the left rear running board bracket with a new one and repaired the right front running board bracket. You can see from the photo below what had previously been done and it was still loose. I removed it, ground down the welds and install it again with bolts. Looks much better and it's tight.

I've begun to test fit parts to check alignments before I permanently rivet and weld them in place.  Both doors and the hood have been taken in to be blasted. After I get the body work completed I will also take it in for blasting.

It has been 3 months since I took the engine in for an overhaul and I'm hoping to hear from Schwalm's in the next week or two that it's ready for pickup. I've been getting the extras I'll need for the motor installation ready. I plan to put in a Nurex ignition advance and an oil filter kit. I'm also going to put in a new water outlet so I can connect a temp. gauge and later a manifold heater.  I hate that it will probably be several months before I'll actually be able to start and run the motor  because of the remaining body work.

Type your paragraph here.

1931 Coupe

5/16/2019

5/15/2019


I spent the day putting "D" nuts (clinch nuts) into the brace that runs across the lower rear of the body. The brace ties the sub-rails and the body together at the very rear of the vehicle. They had to be done in the blind as you can't get to the inside of the brace. The old "D" nuts had long ago rusted up completely and could only be knocked out. I fed one end of a wire into a large hole at end of the brace and tied a new "D" nut to the other end. I would then fish the wire out at each "D" hole and pull the new nut up into the hole and tack weld it in place. These nuts are used to secure the curved panel that drains water entering around the rumble lid.

Installation of these "D" nuts turned out to be a really big job. It's wasn't until late in the job that I realized what the problem was. The rear cross brace is very thick metal. So much so that it left very little of the "D" nut sticking above to weld to. Look closely at the first picture below and you'll see what I was dealing with.

Realizing this I began to countersink the metal around the "D" hole with a grinder and that exposed much more of the "D" nut to weld to. It solved the problem and things began to go much more quickly.

Page 7

7/8/2019